Lightarms for videolightning

[fsiljelof]

Hi, it´s time for me to sort out my videolightning. Most of the time I don´t have a dedicated diver to do my lightning for me so I have to set up a system with cameramounted lights. My problem is finding good light arms to use with the system. As I shoot a lot in low vis water I´d guess I need quit long arms, but how long do I really need? In most of the setups you see out there people tend to use very short arms for videolightning compared to photographers. Could anyone give me a few tips on manufacturers and recommended lengths for videolightarms? The system should be for shooting in low vis waters (Stockholm) but the arms have to be versatile for penetration dives etc.

The rest of the system is s Sony DV-CAM - PDX10P with a sea&Sea VX-950 housing, a sea&sea 110 degrees lens with dual 50W HID lightning.

Any ideas? =)

//Fredrik

[fsiljelof]

Another problem is that my system with the lens and lights mounted is a bit negative buoyant in the water, any tips on compensating for that?

//Fredrik

[Markus Nord]

Hi Fredrik!

I use Loc-Line pipes (plastic and fexible pipes). You get them in 12,5 cm (5 inch) pices and you conect them to the specific length you wish. My lighthead is fairly heavy but it's still no problem with ~80 cm arms. I like this arms 'cus you can bend them in all direction, wide or tight.

I guess you can buy them in difrent divesupply shops but then they are expensive. Try order them from Partille tools in Göteborg.

Send me a PM if you are intressed of more info

[fsiljelof]

Hi, I acctually got loc-line links at home, got them to build me a set of arms but I gave up =) I thought they be a bit to weak to hold up the lights at longer lengths and also I´m not really that much of a home builder and had a hard time with the arm to housing fixings =)

//Fredrik

[limeyx]

Hi, I acctually got loc-line links at home, got them to build me a set of arms but I gave up =) I thought they be a bit to weak to hold up the lights at longer lengths and also I´m not really that much of a home builder and had a hard time with the arm to housing fixings =)

//Fredrik

I am using the ULCS buoyancy arms for my Salvo 24W HID lights.
I have the 12" size, but you can get I think 8" and 5" too and connect them with clamps. the construction is good and the clamps work well.

The problems I have with the 12" are:

1) The "Y" connector on the E/O cords is barely long enough to support the 12" arms
2) because I cannot bend the arms in the middle, due to the length of the arms, I cannot point my video lights onto my gauges. This means that in really low-vis dives or night dives, I am basically flying blind on gauges.

To fix #2 I am considering activating a backup LED light (clipped off to harness) to shine on gauges, but I am not sure how well this will work, especially when you have to manipulate the larger HD housings.

here's a link (http://www.mydivinglife.com/limeyx/1793/Video+setup.html) to my (old) video setup. Will put up pics of my HD setup when I
get a chance.

[fsiljelof]

Hi, the buoyancy arms could probably be a perfect solution for me, I can see you can get them all the way up to 16" in length, a dual set of those would give me 38", do I need them that long? They come in lengths 8", 12" and 16" and any combination, any ideas on how long they need to be? The longer the better?

These are however a bit on the price side =( a left and right arm with two sections each would cost about 600€ + VAT, is there any other brand that would be a cheaper but as good solution?

//Fredrik

[Stephan]

I use an Amphibico + wide angle + Halcyon dual 50W HID

These lightheads are quit heavy and therefore hard to secure. The ulcs arms do the job very well. Other and often cheaper arms are not able to hold the weight and bend.

Regarding negative. I now use the DB-12 arms, but the combination is still negative. I'm experimenting with add PVC tubing, but at this moment I'm not pleased with the result (would like to have my cam + lamp neutral.)

If you want to use longer arm you can enlarge you videohead E/O cord with E/O extension cord. Sartek sells them. Or replace them. My spare E/O-cords are pretty long.

I also tried the combination of 12" + 8" arms. But that is pretty long en creates in my case a lot of drag and is hard to manipulate if you want to change the lighting under water.

I would start with a couple of DB- 12's.

Regards,
Stephan.

[limeyx]

Hi, the buoyancy arms could probably be a perfect solution for me, I can see you can get them all the way up to 16" in length, a dual set of those would give me 38", do I need them that long? They come in lengths 8", 12" and 16" and any combination, any ideas on how long they need to be? The longer the better?

These are however a bit on the price side =( a left and right arm with two sections each would cost about 600€ + VAT, is there any other brand that would be a cheaper but as good solution?

//Fredrik

The 12's are pretty long. I would start with those.

The buoyancy arms don't add that much buoyancy (I think just enough to offset the weight of the clamps maybe) but they stop the arms making an already negative rig worse.

I am not sure of the other brands.

If you want longer than a 12" I would say get a 12 and a 5 to give more flexibility. The 12's are also a pain on the boat (especially if it's a general open boat where anyone can go instead of a private charter -- over here it can be very hard to find a safe place to stow such a large rig honestly)

[jerry.mobbs@mac.com]

To compensate for the buyancy of the 50W, then go to

http://www.adval.it/_eng/galleggiamento.html

get 1 set of floats for each light head

wrap the floats round the head

that way, when you remove the light heads, the floats come with them and you dont affect the bouyancy of whats left

they fit nicely over the ballast and dont come off when scootering

i tried all the other solutions such as PVC pipe etc

thay are all messy

for the arms, get ultralight arms

depending on the distance between the arm mounting points will also affect the length of arm you need

i use the 8 inch arms, and when you add on the mount on the ballast and camera, and the 2 joints at either end you will get 12 inches from mounting point to the centre of the light

for penetration, you need to be able to fold the lights in so the heads are near the handles and the ultralights double back on themselves nicely

if your arms are too long, then this can be an issue

jerry

[limeyx]

To compensate for the buyancy of the 50W, then go to
...
for penetration, you need to be able to fold the lights in so the heads are near the handles and the ultralights double back on themselves nicely

if your arms are too long, then this can be an issue

jerry

thanks for the link. I may well need shorter arms, esp. with the wider housing.
I already have to turn my smaller housing on its side to get through "easy" openings.

[simonlid]

Not knowing how your housing looks like but can't you make a cover using thick neoprene that will increase the buoancy of the kit.

[jerry.mobbs@mac.com]

simon

as you go deeper, the neoprene compresses and the buoyancy changes

this solution would work in a very lmited range of depths

jerry